Hajj Journal Part 1 July 7, 2007

Just so you know, this is not my journal. My brother completed Hajj in 05/06 and kept a journal which he has allowed me to publish.

Part 1 (days 1-15) below

Find part 2 (days 16-30) here

In The Name Of Allah, The Most Merciful, The Most Kind

“And proclaim to Mankind the Hajj. They will come to you on foot and on every lean camel and they will come from every deep and distant mountain highway”

(Al-Hajj :27)”

Thanks to: Allah (swt) for allowing me to complete such a major milestone at a young age, my family who were with me and those who weren’t. Haji Aamer, Haji Nazim, Haji Razwan and Haji Mushtaq for maintaining the UK connection. To Uncle Haji Yasin Haji Altaf (both), for taking us on the journey and making it easy, Haji Azhar, Hazi Mansoor, Haji Zaheer, Haji Zia, Haji Naveed for their brotherhood and the other members of ‘My Hajj and Umra’ Hajj 2006/1426AH. And thank you to the one who made sure I fulfilled my task of keeping this journal so that others may benefit.

 

Day 1: Friday 23/12/2005

Woke up. Mum and Sisters had packed the bags. Sorted.

Set off to the airport, “Terminal 2!” somebody shouted. “Yes,” all concurred. Got to T2. Wrong terminal. Mum: “I knew that, it’s T1”. All: “Why didn’t you tell us?!”

T1 is rubbish. Ended up in the departure lounge, found that the prayer room was before it and we couldn’t go back. We read in a corridor with no idea for direction so read straight.

Flight delayed by one hour. Bumped into Dr Basil (of ISB fame). He ‘bagsied’ the best dua – “Remember me at Arafat!”

Flight took off, Turkish Airlines. The stewardesses looked like they had been attacked at a Boots make-up counter. Turks.

Landed Istanbul 20:15. Connecting flight to Jeddah 20:50. Delayed by 20 mins. This gave extra time to change into the ‘Ihram’. Wahey! Got to the changing facilities/Mosque. Shock. Let’s just say Turkey is really trying hard to shake off its ‘Islamic’ image (probably to get into the EU). No showers (lucky had one before we left). One toilet. State of toilet: infectious. Managed to change after receiving guidance off another ‘1^st timer’ (Brother Azhar) although I had been Umra before (I was 10 but it still counts!). Anyway, got the ‘Ihram’ on, went outside and Mum goes into fashion mode: “No! It’s too high!” It was below the knees but because it didn’t look like a ‘toti’ or ‘tambi’ it was deemed “Eh, eh, eh!” Back into changing room, Dad ‘showed’ me how to change (at 25! The embarrassment!). Came out in a great Ihram mood!

Onto the plane and into ‘awkward Turk man in wrong seat’ palaver.

Flying into Jeddah airport and I look out of the window, see the lights and then it hits me. We are coming into land on which the Sahaba once tread. The true, original ‘Lands of Islam’. It’s a good feeling. Off the plane, shepherded onto a bus (literally). Oh yes, forgot the other plane story: On the plane some Turk starts speaking to Dad, in Turkish. Dad is listening like he understands it all then says “English only!”. From the jist of it I think the guy was questioning why we had put our Ihrams on (even though others, Turks, had changed on the flight). Is there no Meeqat issue? Does anybody know if we do actually pass over one on a flight from Istanbul to Jeddah? Answers on e-mail.

The bus did various laps of the runway; saw all the planes, PIA*2, Yes! Got to the Hajj terminal, a proper set up, lovely plastic orange benches for us to shuffle on. Had a comedian working there, an Arab speaking Urdu, oh the joy! Actually he was very good and polite especially with the elders. We were given ‘Islamic Info’ books written by ‘Abdul Wahab’. Put the ‘Brailvis’ in the Hajj spirit :-p

After much waiting, well actually not much at all according to Parents who first went in ’85 and another ‘old school’ Pilgrim. You used to get shuffled into three rooms before being ejected (Room 101 style), we just had two rooms to go through. I spotted ‘Palaver Turk Man’ from flight having another argument with the Jeddah Crew. Some people! Also my ‘Ihram state’ was not being improved by having to lug 20kg of food around that wasn’t being eaten!

 

 

Day 2: Saturday 24/12/05

Eventually after much wandering, sitting and arguing (oh the Ihram!), we get a bus for Mecca. And what a bus. With a driver to match. All luggage was tied to the roof and the driver was hitting full speed ahead as well as the horn! He must have met an ‘apna’ sometime, he was great! Got to the ‘Turkey/Western Europe/USA/Australians’ office (where all documentation etc is kept) and unloaded the Turks. Cue baggage fun. Some couldn’t be found. Some of our people got off the bus to watch (spiritual help maybe?). Baggage found, journey continues. A long journey indeed, got to the Hotel at approx. 9:30AM (UK 6:30). Fifteen hour journey! A test indeed. In all honesty, I don’t think we did very well ‘Ihram-wise’. Asked for much forgiveness.

Began our Umra at approx. 11:15. On the way to the Harem, the guide (Haji Altaf, Pakistani born and bred now living in the Holy Cities. Fluent Arabic speaker and all round legend.) was saying “Keep your eye’s down” until he said so, in order to get the full effect of seeing the Ka’ba for the first time. Saw the Minarets, exciting (just over 5 mins from Hotel). Walked through the Mosque and start feeling the ‘spiritual buzz’. Into the centre and we get the order to look up. Subhanallah! Words cannot do the emotions justice. The building has ‘presence’. Imposing. It seemed much bigger than I remember those 15 years ago and from the pictures seen. Awesome. Plus it wasn’t that busy. Did our dua’s, and began our ‘tawaaf’. The idea was to stick together. Sure enough, we split. Even though it was quiet it was busy ‘pushing’ wise! Typically, Nigerian women caused it – they take no prisoners! Did my tawaaf, made an attempt to see the ‘Maqaam-i-Ibrahim’, nearly reached it but Sis was getting squashed so gave up. Try later! Mum, Sis and I left, Dad and Sis split. We went on to find the Zam Zam water and found they had tiled over the downstairs route, just the taps and containers upstairs. On to ‘Sa’ee’, do your legs feel that after all the travelling. At each end, ‘Safa’ and ‘Marwa’, roadblock! Kept getting caught up in the same groups, Indonesian and Iranian women! Crazy packs. On the third sa’ee and saw Dad and Sis who were on their fifth! Agreed to meet at the end and met the rest of the group too, result! Haircut time. One lad advised to have the ‘machine cut’ not ‘cut throat’ (In hindsight, this would have been the best option for both Umra’s). Hmm I thought. Went to the barbers, ‘apnay’ with cut-throats ready: ‘Ah what the heck’ and off it came. The bonce was bare. And tingling! That was it, Umra complete. During the Sa’ee etc you think of so many different things and it varies person to person although forgiveness and a desire to change should be in all minds. You are at the place of the Prophets. You are where Ibrahim (ra)/Ismail (ra)/Muhammad (pbuh) all stood. The place where the Sahaba frequented. The homeland. The real homeland. I cannot urge anyone more to go. Inshallah in this country (UK) you will meet the criteria to go at some point. Fulfil your duty.

Back to the hotel, into the shower, ahhhh refreshing! Off to Asr (after kebab sandwiches, that food I was lugging about) Nice and easy. And yes it is true, there is at least one Janaaza after each prayer. No idea who the people are, you can’t see them but you pray for them. I know we read janaaza anyway but these people are dying in Mecca so it gives it a different feeling; are these people arriving knowing they are close to death? Is it a chosen blessed death or an ‘unforeseen’ one?

Read Maghrib in the outside courtyard. Must try harder next time! And leave earlier.

Insect attack, arrghhh!

Day 3: Sunday 25/12/05

Christmas? Bah, Humbug!

Up for Tahajjud 4AM. Never read it before. Then ‘Fajr’. Did a tawaaf, much busier than before but used the ‘dodge move’ to full effect!

Slept till Zuhr, very, very tired.

Met relatives from Pakistan who had also come over. What a way to meet, not seen them for 15 years and we meet in Mecca – subhanallah! Lovely dinner at their place from a Pakistani restaurant.

Asr, then home, lugging many bags of clothes which were presents from them. We were not allowed in the Harem with them as bags are deemed a security hazard, pah!

Maghrib time – decided to stay on until after Isha. ‘Make use’ time, it’s why I was there after all. Found me a nice cool spot upstairs and then when 45 mins left staked a place for Isha with my newly bought prayer mat at 10 Riyals. The marble hurts after a while!

Ah, forgot my morning story. On the way back up ‘Khalid bin al-Waleed Street’ where there are many ‘independent’ sellers sat on the road side. Suddenly, they all just packed their bags and ran. The reason was ‘The Shop Squad’. Picture it: Nissan pick-up full of scarf clad Arabs. They all jump out and charge! One woman got caught and a tug-of-war ensued. He won. It reminds me of the dodgy watch sellers in ‘Lock, stock..’! I suppose it’s better than begging. There is a lot of that unfortunately and it’s all organised. Very sad, disabled Black kids told by the women in charge to line up and show their various deformities/disabilities. Someone told me they (the poor) are looked after by the State, which would make it even more of a shame. Begging? In Mecca? Madness.

Food time after Isha, what to get? Out of the Hotel, turn right, dodge the bikes/trucks/buses and I see Chicken! To the shop with the Shawarma! Skank portions, no big naan like Wilmslow Rd just piddling small ones. Mix in some burgers, chips and Mountain Dew all for 35 Riyals – six quid for five people. Not bad. Filling too. Yum.

Slept at 12. Want to do tawaaf before Fajr and then at 7:30 we are going to the various Hajj sites.

By the way, the group are very nice people, easy to chat with both young and old (I’m the youngest lad)….that’s it, ZZzzzzzzz

 

Day 4: Monday 26/12/05

Well, what a calorie-burning, muscle-straining day! Tawaaf after Fajr, it felt great you have to try it, spiritual bliss. Me!

We went on our sites tour so that we know what to expect on the days. We saw the Jibl-e-Rehmat at Mount Arafat, where Adam (ra) met Huwa (ra) and where the Prophet (pbuh) delivered his last sermon. Major moan point: Beggars. Everywhere. All up the stairs, it’s haraam! Why is it allowed to continue?! The beggars are not to blame, how can someone with no legs and arms get upstairs, it’s the ones who put them there I’m on about. They take the money off the beggars anyway. In fact, they cause some of the disabilities themselves! Beyond description. It can’t be that difficult, station guards there for starters. Second point: Crazy people have written all over the marker! Why?! (Story later on courtesy of Haji Nazim!) What possesses someone on Hajj/Umra to do that? Sawaab? Pff!

On the way back down couldn’t find the group…they were conveniently sat behind the giant sign (telling people NOT to climb or pray on the Mountain!) in the shade whilst we looked for them in the bright Sun!

Read Nafl at Masjid Nimra, a great opportunity as it’s usually closed. Also saw the ‘Europe’ plot for the camp site, it was right at the back! The West aren’t as forward as we think :-p Seeing this and being there makes you seriously think of the Day of Judgement. All souls will be gathered in this one place (I’m sure it will hit harder on Hajj).

Drove past Muzdalifa: ‘The Great Tarmac Plain’. We will be spending one night here on the way back to Mina from Arafat. That will be a cold night brrr! Saw the three Jamarat’s AKA Sharon, Blair and Bush according to Haji Altaf! Hmmm, I remember seeing the pictures when I was young on one of those click thingies, they were ‘pillars’ then. No longer so! Three huge walls on 2 levels and an improved flow-through system which should help prevent any crushes we hope.

Saw Cave Hira, well from the bottom anyway. Will go up soon inshallah.

Masjid Jinn and Masjid Shajjar. Masjid Jinn is where Jinn’s turned to Islam having heard the Prophet (pbuh) speak and Masjid Shajjar is where a Tree moved to give shade to the Prophet (pbuh) when he needed it.

Gave salaam to the Sahaba buried near and then saw the birthplace of the Prophet (pbuh) which is now a library (that’s shut).

Comedy/me being tight moment. Three Auntie’s having their first escalator experience. Aim for the third step (because that’s the full one) and then hang on for your life! If I had been near them I would have helped but as I was going in the opposite direction I just watched :-p

‘Relative Watch’. Unbelievable. On the way to meet relatives with Dad.

The Plan: Me/Dad with bags of clothes etc. Meet them after Maghrib. Mum/Sisters meet us after Isha.

Location: Gate Abbas No. 20

Execution: Dad and I set off to Maghrib. Very busy. Courtyard is ‘roadblock’. Attempt to find a place, join the queue of people. Dad pulls a fast one like he’s being chased for illegal selling. Cuts up four women. I in turn get cut up by a four-woman Indonesian chain! Outcome: Dad lost. No sign. I look around for 10 mins and read where I am. Decide to continue to Gate 20 myself from Gate 79, Baba Fahd. Journey round the courtyard takes at least 30 mins. Much pushing and shoving. Arrive at gate. No show, I pace like a sentry. Call Uncle he says he’ll see us at Isha. I ask if Dad is with him. No. Hmm. Isha comes and goes. I meet a ‘Brav’, Bengali lad from London. I meet some tribal dude sat next to me. But no Dad. No Uncles. No Aunties. No Sisters. I wait, I pace, I walk and I search. Can’t go into the Harem because of the bag. Ring Uncle, the other one answers, he says he’s near the gate near some ‘speakers’. That narrows it down…to everywhere! Eventually, I give up. 3 and a half hours later. Trudge home, moody, tired, hungry (dangerous combination), many bad vibes. All beggars beware! Unfortunately my vibes seem to have spread. Two tribal guys have an argument. Push, shove etc. Someone needs to step in. No, not me! Sis phones as I near the Hotel. ‘Yeah I’m coming’; I mumble. Get into the room, cue much laughter. Apparently we were all in the same place at the same time but managed to miss each other! That’s the best illustration I can give of how busy it is. Mental, mental, chicken oriental, I tell you!

Outcome: Failure. Phone Uncle and abort mission.

Day 5: Tuesday 27/12/05

Wake up. Itchy. Hmm. ‘Cos I was a smelly get, didn’t shower, I was too tired! Off to Fajr (the sight I always buzz off. The sea of people on their way to pray – if that was the norm elsewhere!) Going to Medina after Asr. No clean clothes left and no time to get them washed. Go to the shop and purchase two Jubas/Thobes whatever you want to call them. Haggling gets me 10 Riyals off. Lovely. Look, it’s a start, ok?! Actually, here’s success: Yesterday I was walking past an Islamic bookshop (Islamic?! Really?!) Saw Quran CD’s for sale. “Sodais?” I ask.“Yes, 40 Riyals”. I then gave the hand sign for what other Sheikh’s do you have…well that’s what it is to me anyway! He thinks I’m haggling (I wasn’t even thinking of buying). He says “30” Fine. And I didn’t even try!

Stomach rumbles ominously.

 

Day 6: Wednesday 28/12/05

Well, I have no idea what else happened apart from this nightmare journey. Let me explain. Set off to Medina yesterday at about 17:00. So far, so good. Driving along, Maghrib time comes, oops driver needs to ask directions, oh dear. We pull up at a service station. They all have Mosques (lit up with green light bulbs). However, some of the men who didn’t have wudu (Flatulence Boyz) return from the toilets slightly pale faced. Phrases such as ‘toba toba’ and ‘bai, bai’ and ‘Bro, you don’t know’ are heard at frequent intervals throughout the trip when that stop is mentioned. I almost want to return to experience it myself!

Stomach rumbles again.

Second stop. Toilets. Shudder. The stench. Oh the stench. I didn’t even bother entering, wudu place was outside. Keyword: ‘Khalaas’. The water dripped at first then stopped. Bottle purchased. My stomach has declared war on my bowels. I stop talking in order to form a mental defence. The family purchase some very dodgy looking chicken and rice. I eat a little as I am starving. Then the ‘clench’ move is deployed. Time: Approx. 10PM.

I drift in and out of sleep (consciousness?) The mental fatigue is taking its toll.

Third stop. By the way I’m struggling for leg room! Me! Gives you an idea of the lack of space. I cannot make myself move. Reports come back of ‘changay toilet’. Hope flows. Light shines. Toilets are located. No! Hole in the floor! I can’t use it, I can’t do it, I’m soft, I’m from England man! Time: Approx. Midnight.

I have no idea where I am, anguish has become my domain. I do not see the World as normal people do. I see dark and light. Mostly dark.

The coach stops. Bright light pierces my eyelids like a sword through flesh. Salvation. We have arrived at passport control – Medina beckons! And just as suddenly as it came, hope went. It was another pit-stop. People get on the bus and distribute food packs courtesy of the ‘Al-Madeena Welfare Organisation’. Feeding the Pilgrims. A welcome sight to most but for those with stomach issues, a bitter sight. Sweetness never to be tasted. Time: What is time? Why does it matter? Does counting the hours increase or decrease the will to lead a fulfilling life? (Basically, I have no idea what time it is.)

Passport control arrives. We are told to prepare for a 1-3 hour wait, I can do that. Mentally the message is passed on where needed. Time: As hope glimmers in the distance, stock is taken. 2:50AM.

I gotta go to the bog. It’s nearly Fajr time. Toilets are approached. The queue is long but so is the road to peace. Perhaps my body will yield to this act of truce and leave other matters for the Hotel. The battleground gets closer, the smell stronger. A hole in the floor and the hole doesn’t flush. A calm descends on my body.

6 AM. Still on the coach awaiting paper work. The other coach had received theirs and gone.

7AM. Light fills the sky. We are surrounded by Mountains. What type of ordeal must the Hijra have been? The fact that we are treading the footsteps of the Prophet (pbuh) and the Sahaba is enough to boost my mental strength.

9AM. Much grumbling occurs. Some want to know why the second coach didn’t wait. If I could I would put things into perspective but my stomach rumbles once more.

9:50AM. Dad hits his high-blood pressure level. He goes to the control office with our group leader. Meanwhile on the coach calls are made to the overall group leader who was on the second coach.

Dad returns and in his great English manner says to the driver, with much gesturing (Driver is Syrian) “You go office, they want your name, they speak to you!” Driver puts up a futile resistance (Note: Driver has made many trips out of the coach but returned empty-handed and then slept!). Driver goes with another passenger as my Dad is afraid he will ruin his whole Hajj trip if he gets really angry!

Various to-ing and-fro’ing. Mislaid paper work stories abound. Overall Group leader arrives and all is eventually sorted. Leave PC approx. 12PM. We were stationary for NINE hours. But it’s ok, we met one lot who had been stranded for longer (and I’m sure they were still waiting when we left) and also met three men who had been left by their group! So, alhamdulillah we were still better off than some.

13:30. Arrive at hotel. Nineteen hours. Whoo!

Have a shower then proceed to Asr. Feeling funky and fresh. Get to the end of the St. and Dad says: “We’ve forgotten something”. “Ah yes” I say. Mum and Sisters! Dad insists he knows the way and sends me back. Oh the omens.

Get back to the room and, uh, I find out we made a ‘boo-boo’. The clock was 1 hour ahead! Ah well, Dad can read Quran for an hour.

Went to Asr with an Uncle who shows me around the Mosque. He is going back to Mecca tonight. He does a good job. Saw the ‘Mimbar’ of the Prophet (pbuh), the place where Bilal (RA) gave the athan from (People lose it here, they jump trying to touch the platform! Why?!) Then the main place. Graves of the Prophet (pbuh), Abu Bakr (RA) and Umar (RA). The Uncle got me right in front. Lucky to give salaam from there. Again, some people doing dua towards the graves rather than qibla which is in the complete opposite direction. The guards try stopping them “Biidat dua! Dua to Allah, not rasul!” Went onto the roof. Fantastic design, you have to see to appreciate it. Just remember the gate number you come in through. That goes for Mecca too!

Came back, an hour left for Maghrib. Dad had not returned yet. Mum and Sis got lost on the way back but they went past a food shop and got some samosay, result! They were rescued by Haji Altaf.

Back from Maghrib, still no sign of Dad. Officially worried now. Looked outside the Mosque but with that amount of people, no chance.

Read Isha. Looked around, nothing. Back to the hotel, collect Mum, get food for Sisters and off the two of us go, rescue mission! Time 20:15. He’s been gone six hours and he hasn’t eaten.

Wander around the gates and courtyard. No sign. About to enter the Mosque (having read lots of dua, last-ditch attempt as I had no idea where to start looking). Phone rings. My Sis. Dad had phoned Uncle (Group leader) and advised he was waiting outside the main gate (where we had been!) Found him with a good Samaritan (is it bidat to say that?!) Dad had phoned England to get the number for Uncle’s mobile. Honestly, the Mosque is straight up the road from the hotel and he turned right on the way back!

Time 22:15 Shattered. What a day and there’s plenty left!

Lessons learnt:

Sabar. Cannot be stressed enough. It’s as if Allah (swt) is preparing you for the Hajj. Dad has said sorry to those he lost his temper with on the journey. If you control yourself you beat the Shaytaan.

Don’t eat take-away salan before a journey.

When a man, especially an old one, tells you “Yeah, yeah I’ll be fine.” Don’t believe them. Show them the route twice then leave them to it!

 

Day 7: Thursday 29/12/05

I have completely lost track of days/dates here. Only this journal keeps me in check. Will have been here a week tomorrow, seems like ages.

On the way to Fajr you hear the athan from various Mosques. Sweet for the ears!

Small World moment: Stayed in the Mosque after Maghrib. Read my ‘Selected Prayers’ book in Arabic/English. Sat under the ‘folding umbrellas’, best place to sit, peaceful and cool with the light coming through. The exact environment for ‘spiritual bonding!’ Noticed an Uncle next to me was glancing at my book. I put the book towards him and he took out his glasses and said “These are my favourite dua’s”. We started chatting; he was from Waziristan, Pakistan. Told him I was from Manchester (If I said Rochdale that would have thrown him.) Then he asked me about Tabligh-i- Jamaat, I said there was a centre near where I lived, “Dewsbury?” “No, Rochdale”. “Oh, my cousin lives there!” Turns out his cousin is a Dr. who lives in our area and even better, this Uncle (Usman) also knew my next-door neighbour! We talked about Islam in the UK, he had heard the ‘Ingraiz’ made it hard for us; I advised to the contrary and described how interested people were in my work place. He was so happy, genuine delight. And then personal praise moment: “I can tell you have good parents” Blush.

Time for food. ‘Broast Chicken’. Otherwise known as ‘Fried Chicken’.

Have I mentioned our bathroom? Shared between eight. No toilet seat, a toilet that leaks when it’s flushed and a drippy shower. Not quite a shower, the water collects at the bottom of the shower head and when gravity wins, drips onto your head. Unique.

 

Day 8: Friday 30/12/05

Juma in Medina! Well there I am all excited, ‘Must go early and find a good spot’. Dad: “What’s the rush? It’s all in Arabic anyway!” Sat on the roof.

The Mosque was packed. Almost crushed on the way down the stairs. A Sri Lankan cut up a Pakistani Uncle, cue first argument of the day:

“O tu banda eh ya gaddi?!”

Sri Lankan: “Yaha rasta tha to mey ney liiya”

Uncle: “Mey tinu ra vikhana!”

Sri Lankan: Whimper. Shot off.

Sister ill with a throat infection so took her to the chemists and she decides she wants ‘Lucozade’. So off on a journey I go. As I was walking past the local grocers, a man in his 50s comes flying out of the door, down the stairs, backwards. Three shop workers follow throwing punches and kicks at him! I waited a couple of secs, no-one seemed inclined to stop it so in I went! Random words were shouted such as ‘Haji’, ‘Sabr’ and ‘Musilmaan!’ Broke it up (flex!) and a shop worker says “Yey haraam eh!” No idea what the issue was but some other Bengali (the area was all theirs) cussed them all for fighting and on Juma. Didn’t find any Lucozade. Strawberry milkshake though made by ‘Jamjoon’. Yum. Met up with an old friend from Uni, Haji Mushtaq from Leicester. The first person I met who I know whoops, second. The first was Haji Mansoor Kayani who I had not seen since leaving College in ’98. I met him just before we set off to Medina. He is in the same Group (well, Group 1 who came on 17^th Jan) and had been staying a door down from me, I didn’t even know! Just felt a tap on my shoulder as I came out of Khalid Bin Waleed Mosque and there he was. Took a couple of seconds to click, inshallah he wasn’t offended!

The second friend, Haji Mushtaq was met at ’Shoebox 134’ in Medina Mosque. A great marker system he taught me, can’t believe hadn’t heard about it before. I hadn’t seen him for a few years either, he graduated in 2000. Nattered about various topics, (mostly people’s lack of manners!), then it was Maghrib time.

A meal was offered by the Group Leader (Dawat) and I didn’t say no! Pakistani food, very nice but will regret later. Maybe it’s the water they use? Or the oil? I had planned to go give Salaam today but it got too late.

Room Development – The room we were in was a ‘connecting’ room so it was not convenient for either set of people – traipsing through for the bathroom. The two guys with us (Oldham/Ashton, Pak: from near Peshawar) got a room with their wives and me and the old man got our own room. Sorted. And the bog has a seat – Uncle Haji Yasin threatened to withhold 1000 Riyals if they didn’t! Plus glue put around the base…still leaks though!

Day 9: Saturday 31/12/05

New Year’s Eve, just realised. Means nothing anymore! Well, not much happened. Met third friend, Haji Aamer who I managed to find with help, as ever, from above. I didn’t have Aamer’s Saudi no. with me and he didn’t have mine (we bought SIMS from there because it’s way cheaper than using English SIMS.) Anyway, I tried English number and it went to answer phone. ‘Ah well, inshallah somehow we will meet’ I thought and prayed. This was yesterday. That evening when we went for our dawat, a group of people next to us asked my Dad: “Are you from Rochdale?!’ They recognised him, we chatted and realised they were in Aamer’s group so I asked the Uncle to pass my number on which he did (much appreciated) and Aamer rang. It’s so easy when you pray!

We met at a burger place in one of the ‘malls’, place called ‘Hardees’. It’s a skank. I had a rubber burger, bland as ever. We always fall for it. Why? It’s the ‘Oooh it’s halal’ effect! Here’s a daft thing. The shop does a ‘lottery’. Buy a large meal and they automatically charge you for a ticket for a bunch of prizes! Luckily Aamer knew about this and had already had an argument! He went on the ‘I’m here to be a Haji’ tip. It worked. But why offer it in the first place?

There is also a ‘family’ section where each table is curtained off. You can’t go in unless you’re with a Family consisting of at least one woman. What if Brother’s go out for a meal?! They’re still Family! I actually thought it was a great idea.

I sat in the Mosque under the ‘folding umbrella’s’ waiting to see them fold. They didn’t.

Day 10: Sunday 01/01/2006

Happy Kafir New Year!

A long day today. Up for Tahajjud at 4:15 then off on a ‘Ziyarah’ of Medina at 7:30. No time for sleep, boo!

8:30. Set off.

Stopped at Mount Uhud. The Battle of Uhud is stated by some as a defeat for the Muslims, it was when Khalid Bin Waleed (then a kafir) outmanoeuvred the Muslims. We saw the hill where the archers were commanded by the Prophet (pbuh) to stay and watch from but they abandoned it to get their share of the loot. We saw the valley by which KBW cut them off. To read about it in the biography of KBW is one thing but to actually see it with your eyes is awesome. This is also where Hamza (Ra) is buried along with many other Sahaba.

The ‘Well of Uthman’. A bit of a farcical stop! The well was used by Christians and the Muslims too. Uthman (ra) bought this well from the Christians so the Muslims could use it. The problem here was that the site hasn’t really been maintained and when the tour guide/Maulvi/date seller (!) was pointing it out, no-one really knew where or what to look at! Although we did see the sign for it (this occurred a lot on the trip, with ‘Look straight’ meaning ‘look right!’.

Day 11: Monday 02/01/06

Fajr. Nose twitching, throat sore.

Back from Fajr. Sleep

Zuhr. Back to sleep.

Asr. To the chemist. Sleep

Maghrib. Back to sleep.

Isha. Bit more energised. Went to give salaam to the Prophet (pbuh). It was surprisingly orderly but then again, it was mainly the UK people there.

Day 12: Tuesday 03/01/06

Feeling much better today, alhamdulillah.

Visited Baqee cemetery, the resting place of Fatima (ra), Aisha (ra) and Uthman (ra) as well as many other Sahaba. It has to be said, the Shia excel in the art of mourning! They wail, they cry, they cling to walls and fences, they read dua’s in unison and that’s just the men! I was told by a group member that he saw one man jump the fence, take soil from the grave said to be Fatima’s (ra) and put it in his pocket! The guards made him empty it out. Fool. We saw many strange acts like that throughout the trip, people rubbing the walls/stairs of mosques, why?! The extensions were built by King Fahd anyway! Purchased a bunch of tasbiya from shops next to the cemetery, very good business location!

Met Haji Nazim, now this is a story! A few days ago I wanted to contact the friends who I knew were there, namely Haji Aamer and Haji Mush. The story of Aamer you know, Mush was a simple case of send a text to Omair in London who text my SA no. to Mush. With Nazim though, Allah (swt) came in with the help yet again. I had a missed call on my phone, SA no. I ring it back, Nazim answers. Now, the last time I spoke to Nazim was the morning we left England. He had just received his Hajj Visa the night before and was yet to have his flight arranged. As I was speaking to him the agent rang him so I gave salaam and left so I didn’t even know if Nazim was in SA. I had rang his Orange no. and got the answerphone, ‘Inshallah if it’s to be we will meet’ I thought. When Nazim answered the phone, we both hesitated,

Me: “Nazim?”

Nazim: ‘Soban?!’ How did you get my number?

Me: “I’m returning your missed call!”

Nazim: “But I just bought the SIM half an hour ago, I don’t have your SA number!”

Me: “I was wondering how you got hold of it!”

Nazim: “Dude, I seriously did not ring you!”

Me: “Ok, whatever” (Nazim is famous for his leg-pulling antics.)

We agreed to meet in the Mosque where he insisted he had not rang and that a group member had advised him that ‘some things, you just accept and don’t question.’ Nazim said he had prayed for Allah (swt) to show him a miracle, subhanallah! To this day he maintains not knowing my number so we are now not just friends and buddies but, as he says, ‘Miracle Buddies!’

Anyway, speaking of rituals, he saw the best one! Typical. On Mt. Arafat with the marker, he saw a Bro paying money to an African Bro. The African then handed over a pen/marker with which the guy wrote his name on the pillar marking the point of meeting between Adam(ra) and Huwa (ra). The African then produces a big tasbi, rubs it on the name on the pillar whilst speaking some words and then rubs it on the guy! BIDAT! Where these rituals have sprang from I do not know but there’s some strange things going on in our Ummah!

Oh, the shower now drips hot water instead of lukewarm, Woo!

Went to give salaam again, order once more. Read 2 nafl although some people were still doing silly things, for example: The area you read in is known as ‘The Piece of Paradise’ so, following the teachings of the Prophet (pbuh) you should want for your brother what you want for yourself, right? Wrong. Some of the people, once in the area, refuse to move. They will read large numbers of rakah’s or they will just sit in dua. Now to me, there’s something wrong here. Why would someone deny another the chance to read ‘in Paradise’? Strange people. Oh and I witnessed yet another argument this time in the Mosque. Medina = Peaceful, polite people? Hmm.

Have to say though, when your feet just touch the carpet that marks the area, no lie, your whole body tingles and you read like never before. My spirit just keeps getting touched.

 

 

Day 13: Wednesday 04/01/06

What a Fajr. Ok, all the namaaz are good but this Fajr was like receiving a present when you are a child. The Imam read Surah Yaseen. Unbelievable.

Feeling a lot better now. I sent a text last night to get a general update on Arsenal and also for the Arsenal v Man Utd score. Imran text back: ‘I’m not going to tell you because you should be concentrating!’ Arrrgh! Arsenal probably lost the way we have been playing recently. (Turned out to be 0-0 and boring. At least it’s a point!)

Met Nazim again, after having been skanked 40 riyals! Dad bought a trimmer from a shop and it was rubbish so he returned it but the guy was having none of it. Plus the first one he sold didn’t work. He kept going on about the box having been opened?! We were going to be late for Maghrib so told him to keep it and the money. Arabs.

Fashion spot: Guy walked past me in the mosque wearing a Burberry print Shalwaar Kameez!

Isha prayer was amazing too. In the ‘folding umbrellas’ area right in front of the old Mosque. When you see the green dome and minaret it reminds you of the old pics you see and even when in front of you it looked like a pic! There was a breeze blowing and as the Imam read you could feel it going through the gaps it felt like the wind was lifting you. It’s said that if you completely submit yourself to Allah (swt) then He (swt) will come to you at the speed of the wind. Well it definitely felt like that.

Went for my farewell salaam to the Prophet (pbuh), Abu Bakr (ra) and Umar (ra). About 22:00. Prayed nafl again in the ‘Garden of Paradise’. Inshallah I hope to go back sooner rather than later. Bidat watch update: Bro was praying towards the grave and not the qibla. The guard was shouting ‘Bidat dua! Pray to Allah (swt) not rasul (saw)’. I told the bro what the guard was saying. He acknowledged me, turned but only managed 90 degrees before he thought ‘Naa!’ and turned back!

Being in Medina has been ‘different’. It’s a lot more modern and developed than Mecca and much, much cleaner. There is more order in the Mosque, strict segregation and some people were very nice. Unfortunately, on the whole, I would say that the impression was not of people who are humble and polite and gentle. Although maybe it was just the effect I had on them!

NOTE: It is said that the Dajjal, on approaching Medina, will stand on a hill and see a ‘giant, white palace’. If you see the pictures of the Mosque now, you will see why this point is scary.

Only Fajr/Zuhr left to read in Medina then back to Mecca we go. Inshallah the return journey will be nothing like the one here! Plus we will be in Ihram!

Day 14: Thursday 05/01/06

Oh Man! The morning was spent running around packing bags. The orders were: Bags ready for 9-9:30. Bus arriving 10AM and will be loaded. Go to Zuhr in Ihram and come straight onto the bus.

11AM still no bus. Bags packed though! 12PM buses arrive; we put on Ihram (without making Niyah that is to be done at the mosque at Dhul Halifah on the way back to Mecca as this is the Meeqat for those travelling from Medina). Got on the bus 14:00 and set off, no dodgy stomach this time, alhamdulillah! The last prayer at the Mosque was nice, very quiet in terms of people compared to previous days. Tomorrow is the last day for buses to leave for Mecca. Those left will be going straight to Mina. Met a young lad as I left, figured he had to be US/UK as he was wearing a hoodie, baggy jeans, surma (goth style!). Yup, I was right he was from the US, California. I said “Yeah, I thought it was either there or the UK”. He laughed. Then ran. He probably thought I was going to issue a fatwa…Jeans in the Masjid Nabi?!

Well, my dua’s were answered, yet again. (I also had ‘other people’ praying too It was a straightforward journey, no hassles. Stopped for Maghrib then read Isha at a stop where the Mosque was shut, the mats were outside. It was excellent, I love reading salah outside, makes it that bit more special.

The scenery on the way back was fantastic. We came to Medina at night so we saw nothing then but now, I could see all the mountains etc. One area I saw was just empty, barren land and a mountain could be seen in the distance, just like in Lord Of The Rings, Mount Doom! It was a pleasant journey even though it took 10 hours + in total (That’s good!). Also saw a burnt out coach at the check point which was disturbing but all the passengers were outside. On the way into Mecca you can see the construction work taking place: Mountains just blasted away and buildings jutting out of them. Again made you think of the life that must have been led in the past.

Day 15: Friday 06/01/06

Happy birthday to me! 26 oh it’s all downhill from here :-p

Made it back to hotel for approx. midnight. Lugged the luggage up to the room (it seems much smaller than I remember). Found some lovely creepy crawlies in a bowl of sugar that had been left in the room. Did wudu, woah do you SWEAT in Ihram! Have the 3 days in Hajj to come yet.

Off to Umra we went at 1AM. The street was as busy as if it was 13:00. People everywhere, Mecca is full to the brim!

Into the Harem, it was rammed. Actually, I exaggerate (shock!), it wasn‘t nearly as busy as we were dreading, them duas just keep getting granted instantly. Did the tawaaf with minimal aggro (saw an argument at the Maqaam-i-Ibrahim, I don’t think the guy appreciated people hitting the floor for nafl right there!) Got to the 7^th tawaaf, not too bad, then fatigue struck. Couldn’t get to the Zam Zam area it was too busy, decided to have some at the Sa’ee. Started it after getting completely squashed, got to the ‘green lights’ and started my run, then it happened. Lost the fam! Ah well, just kept on going. I was on a completely different plane here. I could feel my legs moving, my feet hitting the ground with just a constant, numbing pain. Kept on going, ‘I’m here on duty’ no other reason.Allah (swt) increase my strength and iman! On the 7^th Sa’ee, the final step (got my Zam Zam on the 2^nd one from the area built on the side), 100% on spirit, energy levels Zero. No idea how I finished but I got to the end. Looked around for the others but no sign of them. Quick dua and alhamdulillah, there they were! Dad and I got heads shaved (10 riyals! Was 5 before!) and Mum/Sis made their own way home.

Needed to get to the Fahd exit from Safa/Marwa side. No problem we thought, just do what we did in the first few days and cut through the Harem. Uh-uh. Big mistake. It was 3:30AM and it was packed. We were literally stepping on people to get across and we couldn’t go back either. Both pushed and shoved and shouted at (and shouted back, the shame!). I stood on someone’s dua book/quran? And the guy kicked off. What was it doing on the floor though?! I shouted in Punjabi. Made him go quiet anyway, astagfirullah! I am sorry for doing that, really.

Got back to the hotel for 4AM. A sea of people were coming the opposite way for Tahajjud. Jumped in the shower and got ready for Fajr. Set off at 5:20, Fajr at 5:40. Only managed to make it near to Khalid Bin Waleed Mosque and the lines had formed. Read Fajr with the jamaat outside as it was full too, this is a location that is approx. 7 mins from Harem and the lines were up to it, that’s how many people we are talking about! Cunningly thought ‘I will set off early for Juma’. Set my alarm for 8:30, you have to go early! ‘You’re having a laugh’ said my body. Got up at 11:30. Read Juma…further down the street.

Asr was a military operation. Went to meet relatives at their hotel on Safa/Marwa side. Off we went, marching down the street, avoid the Harem go round the outside, nice and easy, quick time. Got to the hotel and we were refused entry! A hotel had collapsed the day before near to them and it was a case of ‘If you don’t have the right ID card you ain’t coming in’.

Back to the Harem for Maghrib and stayed for Isha. Met a Brother from Libya called Suleyman. Had a nice chat, ‘extremely jolly chap’ I must say! Comments such as ‘If Allah (swt) had made Mecca in England then we would have all been wearing a few coats!’ He worked for the Libyan Department of Agriculture so he was what we call ‘Gormant da banda’! On the way out met a Brother from Handsworth, Birmingham. I asked him if he was on his own (as in not with family) and he replied ‘Na man, with a group innit!’ Brummies, ya gotta luv ‘em!

Every St, every alley, every nook and cranny is filled with people. Every colour, every nation, each continent is represented here. Can’t wait for the traffic to Mina!

I’ve only just found out that Hajj is confirmed for Monday so Eid is Tuesday. Just received a random text from Waqas: ‘Ariel Sharon is in a coma’. I read it in the lift and chuckled. My Sis told me off :-p

I have also realised I really miss Medina! It was so clean and ‘peaceful’ compared to here. Oh retrospective, I hate you.